Classroom Observation

My school, Escuela General Carlos Prats González, is located in the poorer region of a middle-class neighborhood in Santiago called Recoleta. The building has three stories and surrounds a covered recreational area where the kids play during recess. I am teaching 5th – 8th grades, or children between 11 and 15 years of age.  I am required to teach 25 hours each week, while an additional 10 hours will be spent completing lesson plans and arranging extracurricular activities that pertain to English language-learning. Below is the view from the 3rd floor of the building:

My first official day of observation (Monday, June 21st) was not only the day after Father’s Day, but also coincided with Chile’s second match in the World Cup against Switzerland. We began the day with a celebratory breakfast for all the father teachers and proceeded to watch the game afterwards with the few children whose parents actually sent them to school that day. There was no sense in trying to teach, as neither the students nor the teachers were interested in much aside from fútbol. Classes proceeded after the win, but in such frenzy that it might as well have been a free day for me.

The second and third days proceeded a bit more academically. I became accustomed to the students staring at me during recess and asking me how to say various words and phrases in English. Among some of the questions asked were “Do you know Tiger Woods/Brittany Spears/The Simpsons/Lady Gaga/Barack Obama,” “Which soccer player are you dating,” “What does ‘Waka Waka’ (Shakira's single for the World Cup) mean,” and “Is your hair real?” There seems to be a general mindset among the younger crowd that those from the U.S. must be celebrities and therefore live among and are acquainted with all celebrities—including cartoons—of the same origin. In addition, there seems to be a strong American influence in the children’s musical preference, so I was also frequently asked to translate lyrics. Some teachers were shocked to learn the meaning of the lyrics to The Killer’s “Somebody Told Me.” Also, Michael Jackson has a particularly strong following in Chile. I took the following video of an imitator trying to make a few bucks on a street corner near my host family’s house. He was quite talented and would stop dancing between songs to motivate bystanders to contribute.

On Friday the school held a ceremony to celebrate the Mapuche (indigenous people of Chile) identity. As many of the students are of indigenous descent, they participated in several dances led by a Mapuche representative dressed in the traditional garb. The event was held outside underneath the covered area, and the children and teachers alike had to keep an eye out for the palomas, or pigeons, that enjoyed terrorizing the crowd with their frequent droppings.

After the ceremony, class was canceled for the observation of Chile’s third match in the World Cup against Spain. Some of the staff were planning an asado, or barbecue, to which my co-teacher and I were invited. Though Chile lost the match 2-1, you would have thought they had won from the celebrations that ensued afterward (one of the volunteers was in the downtown area when tear gas was used on the crowd). Apparently the consensus was that Chile’s loss would make for a more competitive match against Brazil, though unfortunately that wasn't the case. After the match concluded, the teachers began to dance to some salsa music. Someone eventually invited me onto the rudimentary dance floor and, upon seeing my performance, promised to take me to a salsa club the next night where I could receive instruction and dance the night away. I ended up having a great time and even learned a few moves. Altogether, I passed the first week very well and felt much more prepared to begin teaching.

Classroom Observation

My school, Escuela General Carlos Prats González, is located in the poorer region of a middle-class neighborhood in Santiago called Recoleta. The building has three stories and surrounds a covered recreational area where the kids play during recess. I am teaching 5th – 8th grades, or children between 11 and 15 years of age.  I am required to teach 25 hours each week, while an additional 10 hours will be spent completing lesson plans and arranging extracurricular activities that pertain to English language-learning. Below is the view from the 3rd floor of the building:

My first official day of observation (Monday, June 21st) was not only the day after Father’s Day, but also coincided with Chile’s second match in the World Cup against Switzerland. We began the day with a celebratory breakfast for all the father teachers and proceeded to watch the game afterwards with the few children whose parents actually sent them to school that day. There was no sense in trying to teach, as neither the students nor the teachers were interested in much aside from fútbol. Classes proceeded after the win, but in such frenzy that it might as well have been a free day for me.

The second and third days proceeded a bit more academically. I became accustomed to the students staring at me during recess and asking me how to say various words and phrases in English. Among some of the questions asked were “Do you know Tiger Woods/Brittany Spears/The Simpsons/Lady Gaga/Barack Obama,” “Which soccer player are you dating,” “What does ‘Waka Waka’ (Shakira's single for the World Cup) mean,” and “Is your hair real?” There seems to be a general mindset among the younger crowd that those from the U.S. must be celebrities and therefore live among and are acquainted with all celebrities—including cartoons—of the same origin. In addition, there seems to be a strong American influence in the children’s musical preference, so I was also frequently asked to translate lyrics. Some teachers were shocked to learn the meaning of the lyrics to The Killer’s “Somebody Told Me.” Also, Michael Jackson has a particularly strong following in Chile. I took the following video of an imitator trying to make a few bucks on a street corner near my host family’s house. He was quite talented and would stop dancing between songs to motivate bystanders to contribute.

On Friday the school held a ceremony to celebrate the Mapuche (indigenous people of Chile) identity. As many of the students are of indigenous descent, they participated in several dances led by a Mapuche representative dressed in the traditional garb. The event was held outside underneath the covered area, and the children and teachers alike had to keep an eye out for the palomas, or pigeons, that enjoyed terrorizing the crowd with their frequent droppings.

After the ceremony, class was canceled for the observation of Chile’s third match in the World Cup against Spain. Some of the staff were planning an asado, or barbecue, to which my co-teacher and I were invited. Though Chile lost the match 2-1, you would have thought they had won from the celebrations that ensued afterward (one of the volunteers was in the downtown area when tear gas was used on the crowd). Apparently the consensus was that Chile’s loss would make for a more competitive match against Brazil, though unfortunately that wasn't the case. After the match concluded, the teachers began to dance to some salsa music. Someone eventually invited me onto the rudimentary dance floor and, upon seeing my performance, promised to take me to a salsa club the next night where I could receive instruction and dance the night away. I ended up having a great time and even learned a few moves. Altogether, I passed the first week very well and felt much more prepared to begin teaching.

Chile: A Few Cultural Differences

Though some may not realize it, winter in Chile (and the rest of South America, for that matter) corresponds with summer in the U.S. For this reason, I packed what I thought was a reasonable amount of business clothes for teaching and sweaters for layering. What I didn’t realize is that central heating is something we definitely take for granted in the U.S.

Upon arrival in the hostel, I was shocked to find my room the same temperature as the air outside (around 50ºF, give or take a few). We bundled up for the night and survived the week somehow—neither our classroom nor any of the restaurants in which we dined offered heating either. When I arrived at my host family’s house, the shock had worn off a bit and I was happy to learn that the family owned a space heater. The beds also have mattress heaters, which is a definite plus! Among all of the places I’ve visited thus far during my time here, only one bank (and it was a really nice one!) and a 3-story mall offered central heating to customers.

Due to the constant exposure to the cold, I’ve found that I get hungry much more often and need to consume more food to keep warm. Things get very chilly when there’s no direct sunlight, and gloves and legwarmers are a necessity.

Stray dogs were another surprising aspect of the city. They roam the streets of Santiago in search of food and freebies and will pledge their allegiance to you forever if you show mercy. Our group had a mixed Doberman/German Shepherd fellow as our guide for a bit while we toured the city. He knew exactly when it was safe to cross the street (he recognized the difference between a green and a red light, though dogs are supposedly colorblind), and he accompanied us for over an hour until we walked into a restaurant. He is portrayed in all his magnificence below:

Earlier this week, when I was walking with my “mom” to buy a transportation card for the metro (subway), I was shocked to see firemen soliciting handouts alongside the homeless. When I asked her about it, Mom informed me that firemen, or bomberos, are not paid, but that they must stand on street corners and humbly ask for pocket change if they want to supplement their income from other jobs. I felt very awkward about this—how would the homeless react if one bypassed them only to contribute to the well-dressed firemen?

Finally, one of the most significant cultural differences can be noted simply through small talk with locals. Among the usual questions a foreigner can expect to be asked—occupation, reason for being in Chile, regions to which you have traveled, etc.—are those regarding age and marital status (and in some cases even political and religious beliefs)! Though these topics are generally taboo in the U.S., they are apparently discussed with ease in the Latin American cultures. And why not? The more I think about it, the more efficient it seems. If a single guy is only interested in girl because he's looking for a relationship, he can ask if she's married, receive a "yes" if she's not interested in him, and go on his way without troubling himself too much. In a matter of minutes I can get to know the deepest beliefs of a Chilean acquaintance better than I do a friend of 2-3 years in the US!

Chilean Cuisine

Meals constitute one of the biggest culture shocks I received during my first week in Chile. When North Americans consider the South American diet, tacos and burritos are usually among the first dishes that come to mind. Not so in Chile! These items are more typical of Mexican cuisine, and as the U.S. is so close in proximity to Mexico, we tend to associate their dietary preferences with all of Latin America. In fact, Mexican and Peruvian restaurants are fairly common and popular in many areas of Santiago.

Among the most important of Chilean foods is the avocado. Everything here is served with avocado, from bread to hot dogs! There are even avocado dispensers that accompany mustard and ketchup dispensers at hot dog stands. In addition, salt takes on a greater role here than in the U.S., whereas pepper is almost completely discarded. I have now been here for two weeks, and not once have I spied a pepper dispenser in any restaurant or food stand. Sometimes there are even two salt dispensers on a table, just in case the first one runs out.

I also knew before I arrived that fruit would be extra-cheap in South America, but I was still surprised to see the prices. When I met my host mother for the first time, she took me to a feria (a fruit/vegetable market) to buy the family's fruit 'n' veggie stash for the week. A kilo of apples (1 kilo = about 2 lbs) can be bought for 1,000 pesos, or around $2.00 in U.S. currency! There was also a variety of fruit which was completely foreign to me: something that resembled a pear, another something that looked like a pumpkin, and something similar to a watermelon were the most striking.

If Americans would be impressed by the cheap cost of fruit here, they would be horrified by the lack of brewed coffee or fresh milk. Every cup I’ve had of each has come from a box of powder. I had just assumed that all South American countries sold great coffee, but that is sadly not the case. Tea is much more popular, so I’ve simply replaced coffee with tea for my daily caffeine intake. Milk seems to be a lost cause, though—there’s just no replacing a fresh gallon of milk from the local grocery store.

Salads are mostly served with fresh lemon juice as dressing. Lemon is another Chilean phenomenon—bread is sometimes served at restaurants along with a plate of sliced lemons for water, salad, seafood dishes, etc. Seafood is extremely popular and cheap, considering the fact that Chile boasts the longest coastline in the world.

The dish above is lomo a lo pobre, a popular item on the menu here that consists of two eggs (usually fried) served on top of a steak with french fries on the side.  It can be served as any meal of the day.  

Finally, as for meals themselves, the Chilean structure is somewhat distinct from that of the U.S. Breakfasts are typically continental and consist of jam and bread and instant coffee or tea. Lunch is served a bit later here, usually around 1:00 or 2:00 pm. Once, or the Spanish equivalent for the number 11, many times replaces dinner and can be served at almost any time of the day. As once is always consumed after lunch but sometimes before dinner (if it doesn’t replace dinner altogether), it usually occurs between 4:00 and 8:00 pm. If there is a dinner served afterward (more common on weekends), it usually takes place after 9:00 pm.

Santiago: Orientation

During the week of orientation, my friends and I went shopping in the downtown area for various items we had either lost or forgotten at home. One of the first things that caught my attention in a "super" (short for supermercado, or grocery store) was an aisle full of liquor - as most of us North Carolinians know, these items are prohibited in our own grocery stores. As we browsed the shelves, amusing ourselves with the Spanish titles, we stumbled across Cuban Rum! A friend and I decided to split the cost (a whopping $12 for a fifth) and share it with fellow volunteers at the hostel. It was surprisingly strong and sweet, and I highly recommend it whenever the U.S. government decides to dissolve economic sanctions against Cuba.

I mentioned the name "San Cristóbol" in an earlier post as a popular attraction in Santiago. I went with a few volunteers to explore the city and came upon this hill, the second highest in the city, that offers visitors a fascinating vista of the Andes. At the top of the hill (and pictured above) is a large statue of the Virgin Mary that overlooks the city. We did not make it all the way to the top of San Cristóbol due to the setting sun (as tourists, we did not feel confident enough to continue our hike in the dark), but below is a picture of the city that was taken from the half-way point. As you can see, smog constitutes a major problem for Santiago, which is located in a valley and therefore trapped beneath a stifling blanket of its own design. In fact, the towering Andes can be clearly seen from the city only after a rainstorm, which permits the polluted air to rise.

Our adventurous spirits were not satisfied after dark fell and so we ventured out into the city once again after dinner was served in the hostel. One of the volunteers showed us a bookstore he had found that contained loads of Chilean literature. Most of the books had fallen from their original shelves during the earthquake earlier in the year and were thus hopelessly out of order, but I happened upon "Como Agua para Chocolate" (As Water for Chocolate) and bought it for a mere $5. In addition to his public collection, the owner (who spoke only Spanish) revealed to us his private archive on a platform suspended from the ceiling. The literature displayed there was mixture of photocopies and originals, he told us, of poems and prose produced during the military dictatorship (1973 - 1990). Though these materials are still highly controversial and considered contraband by some, he welcomed us to browse through them at any time.

Earlier I mentioned the cheap cost of Cuban rum. I knew before coming to Chile that the cost of living in South America was generally cheaper than that of the U.S., but I was told by various locals throughout orientation that Chile is actually among the cheapest countries in the South (apart from Peru and Bolivia). I can vouch for the relatively low cost of meals - each volunteer was provided with a check for $2,500 Chilean pesos (roughly $5 in U.S. currency) to cover lunch. As lunch is the biggest meal of the day in Chile, I wasn't expecting to find a venue cheap enough for the check to cover the cost. In one restaurant, however, the meal of the day came with a soup, salad, chicken and rice (a popular dish here), a soft drink and a dessert for around $2,100 pesos! Wine is also very cheap: most bottles can be purchased for less than the equivalent of $5 because the city is surrounded by wineries. I never thought that beer could be more expensive than wine, but that is generally the case in Santiago.

And finally, a bit about the hostel. For those of us who had never stayed in a hostel before, the experience was an eye-opener. I did not know, for example, that guests are usually expected to provide their own towels and toiletries. As I had no towel, I resorted to drying myself with my pajamas for the first few days of my stay. We also lacked central heating, so we either had to bundle up at night or cuddle to stay warm.  Buildings with central heating are apparently the exception rather than the norm in Santiago, so volunteers found it necessary to wear jackets and gloves at all times throughout the day. Below is a picture of the hostel.

Santiago: Arrival and World Cup

My journey began when my plane took off from Charlotte, NC at 11:45 am on Saturday, June 12, 2010. I flew through Miami, FL and Bogotá, Colombia before finally reaching my destination in Santiago, Chile at 4:45 am the next morning. I sat between a Colombian and a Brazilian en route to Colombia and we had an interesting conversation in Spanish/English/Portuguese!

Upon arrival in Santiago, the 40 volunteers were provided with transportation to a hostel in the downtown area. Training ran from 9:00 am-5:30 pm each day during the week, and we took advantage of the free time to explore the city. Among the most popular sites were San Cristóbol, Santa Lucia, and La Chascona (the house of famed Chilean Nobel Prize winner Pablo Neruda).

Above is La Moneda, the Chilean presidential palace. Americans who visit Santiago without some political background knowledge will be surprised to see a main street named "11 de Septiembre," which was the date that La Moneda was bombed in a 1973 military coup led by the up-and-coming dictator Augusto Pinochet. Socialist president Salvador Allende was killed in the attack. La Moneda was rebuilt in the following years, but now serves only as a working environment rather than the presidential residence.

On Wednesday, June 16 many of the volunteers chose to wake up early to watch the World Cup (Chile vs. Honduras) with the Chileans at 7:30 am. The match was projected onto a huge screen in front of La Moneda and the turnout was amazing. The local schools had canceled early morning classes to allow the students to watch, and much of the crowd consisted of young boys who probably would have skipped classes anyways (see the video below for a glimpse of the excitement). Even those of us who spoke little to no Spanish could tell that these boys were as vulgar as pirates, but loudest of all was the Chilean cheer "Chi-Chi-Chi, le-le-le, Vi-va Chi-le!" Most of us left to attend training before the match ended, but we knew Chile had won when the cars outside our building began honking crazily. The high spirits lasted throughout the day, and a drunk young man behind our building proceeded to blast the same Chilean national song over and over from his apartment window for the duration of our training session (a whopping 7 hours). It was the first time Chile had been eligible to compete in the World Cup in about 10 years, so it was a great week for all of us to be in the downtown area.

More to come!

Chile: Introduction

Chile was the first country outside the US in which I lived. Here's the short version:

During my senior year of college (2009 - 2010), I decided I wanted to take a gap year and leave the US to achieve fluency in Spanish, which I had been studying for two years. I was saving up throughout the various jobs I held in college, so I had some money but no plan.

Luckily for me, there's substantial international demand for Teachers of English as a Foreign Language (TEFL), so I simply enrolled in an online TEFL course a few months before graduation and was signed up for a 3-month volunteer position in Chile as part of the program. A month after graduating from college, I was on a plane to Santiago!

The program, English Opens Doors, was established by the Chilean Ministry of Education and offers positions that last anywhere from a few months for the winter program to an entire year or longer. Program volunteers are matched with host families and can be sent to any participating school along Chile's 2,700-mile ribbon of territory (a few regions were closed during my time there due to inclement weather). The participants of my group - about 40 people from the US, Canada, and the UK - gathered at a hostel in Santiago for a week's worth of additional training and were sent off shortly afterwards to our host families.

What follows is a personal reflection of my time in Chile and includes topics that range from Chilean food to the World Cup to cultural differences. I hope you enjoy the posts, and please feel free to leave comments or to contact me if you are interested in more details regarding the program.