Though some may not realize it, winter in Chile (and the rest of South America, for that matter) corresponds with summer in the U.S. For this reason, I packed what I thought was a reasonable amount of business clothes for teaching and sweaters for layering. What I didn’t realize is that central heating is something we definitely take for granted in the U.S.
Upon arrival in the hostel, I was shocked to find my room the same temperature as the air outside (around 50ºF, give or take a few). We bundled up for the night and survived the week somehow—neither our classroom nor any of the restaurants in which we dined offered heating either. When I arrived at my host family’s house, the shock had worn off a bit and I was happy to learn that the family owned a space heater. The beds also have mattress heaters, which is a definite plus! Among all of the places I’ve visited thus far during my time here, only one bank (and it was a really nice one!) and a 3-story mall offered central heating to customers.
Due to the constant exposure to the cold, I’ve found that I get hungry much more often and need to consume more food to keep warm. Things get very chilly when there’s no direct sunlight, and gloves and legwarmers are a necessity.
Stray dogs were another surprising aspect of the city. They roam the streets of Santiago in search of food and freebies and will pledge their allegiance to you forever if you show mercy. Our group had a mixed Doberman/German Shepherd fellow as our guide for a bit while we toured the city. He knew exactly when it was safe to cross the street (he recognized the difference between a green and a red light, though dogs are supposedly colorblind), and he accompanied us for over an hour until we walked into a restaurant. He is portrayed in all his magnificence below:
Earlier this week, when I was walking with my “mom” to buy a transportation card for the metro (subway), I was shocked to see firemen soliciting handouts alongside the homeless. When I asked her about it, Mom informed me that firemen, or bomberos, are not paid, but that they must stand on street corners and humbly ask for pocket change if they want to supplement their income from other jobs. I felt very awkward about this—how would the homeless react if one bypassed them only to contribute to the well-dressed firemen?
Finally, one of the most significant cultural differences can be noted simply through small talk with locals. Among the usual questions a foreigner can expect to be asked—occupation, reason for being in Chile, regions to which you have traveled, etc.—are those regarding age and marital status (and in some cases even political and religious beliefs)! Though these topics are generally taboo in the U.S., they are apparently discussed with ease in the Latin American cultures. And why not? The more I think about it, the more efficient it seems. If a single guy is only interested in girl because he's looking for a relationship, he can ask if she's married, receive a "yes" if she's not interested in him, and go on his way without troubling himself too much. In a matter of minutes I can get to know the deepest beliefs of a Chilean acquaintance better than I do a friend of 2-3 years in the US!
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